BOOKS

In the last years, my friend, Ahmet, has developed a very keen relationship with a place beyond the framework of his profession as tourist guide. Perhaps based on professional considerations, his interest is not limited by them. I’ve witnessed his months of walking every inch of Fener, Balat and Ayvansaray, his efforts to access books on this subject, his time spent on reading and learning, then back to the streets again; not only investigating street by street, house by house, but photographing and speaking to the people who live there. He’s got used to eating their beans and rice cooked over a coal fire and misses them when he’s away. In short, he has become fast friends with Fener, Balat and Ayvansaray.

F. Besim Dellaloğlu

The Land Walls

“Passing the grounds of the Altinay Spor Klubu, you will be treated to a splendid view of the Theodosian walls. In 408 A.D., when Theodosius II ascended the throne, the city had already spread way beyond the old Constantinian walls. Emperor Theodosius ordered the construction of a new set of land-walls, those you see today, built approximately one and a half kilometers beyond the old ones. Completed in 413 A.D., these walls were largely demolished in 447 A.D. by a terrible earthquake. At that moment of history, making matters worse, Attila the Hun appeared upon the horizon. With grim determination in the face of this approaching threat and in only two months, the Byzantines rebuilt all of their land-walls more sturdily than before. As Attila’s army moved westward where he was to become known as “the scourge of God” these words were inscribed in Latin on the Gate of Rhegium (Mevlanakapi) commemorating this great feat: “…by the command of Theodosius, Constantine erected these strong walls in less than two months. Scarcely could Pallas herself have built so strong a citadel in so short a span.”

The land-walls extend from the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn, a distance of approximately six kilometers. The inner wall was 5 meters wide and 12 meters high. It was studded by 96 towers at 55 meter intervals that were 18 to 20 meters high. Machines for hurling projectiles at the enemy were positioned on top of the towers. The peribolos, between the inner and outer walls, was a 15 to 20 meter terrace. The outer wall was 8 meters high and two meters wide. It, too, had 96 towers alternating with those of the inner wall. Beyond it was an outer terrace, the parateichion, with a battlement on the outside nearly two meters high. After the parateichion came a moat, 10 meters deep and 20 meters wide. It was filled with water when the city was threatened. These walls, comprising a formidable system of defense, protected Byzantium from harm for over a thousand years.

Today, the moat in front of the walls and the land in its surrounds has been turned into cemeteries and vegetable patches. From the Sea of Marmara to the Golden Horn, there are eight gates still in existence. They are, in this order: the Golden Gate (Yedikule Kapisi), Belgrade Gate (Belgradkapi), Silivri Gate or Selymbria Gate (Silivrikapi), the ancient Gate of Rhegium now Mevlana Gate (Mevlanakapi), Cannon Gate (Topkapi), Pempton Gate (Sulukule Kapisi), the Gate of Adrianople (Edirnekapi) and Crooked Gate (Egrikapi).

Introduction / Fatih Besim Dellaloğlu
From Byzantium to Istanbul
A Route for One Day

KARIYE MUSEUM AND ITS ENVIRONS
Kariye Museum
The Ancient Byzantine Walls
    The Four Corners of Istanbul

AYVANSARAY
Ayvansaray
Tekfur Palace
    Imperial Palaces
Church of Panaghia Hancerliotissa
Kasturya Sinagogue
    Dergahs and Tekkes
Adileshah Kadin Hatice Sultan Mosque
Su’be Hazretleri exalted /Like Jesus or Mary title of relig respect
Egrikapi (Crooked Gate or Gate of the Kaligaria)
Kirikcesme Maksemi
Kandilli Tomb
Panaghia Suda Church
    Byzantine
Dervishzade Street
Mimar Mustafa Aga Fountain
Hancherli Hamam
Ivaz Efendi Mosque
Anemas Prisons
    Byzantine Law and Punishment
Lodge of Emir Buhari
Ebuzerr El Gifari Mosque and Tomb
Lonca /Guild
Panaghia Blachernae Church
Tomb of Muhammed El –Ensari
Haci Husrev Mosque
Lodge of Toklu Ibrahim Dede
    The Golden Horn Under Ice/Frozen over
Cabir Mosque

BALAT
Church of St. Demetrius Kanabu and Balat Or-Ahayim Hospital
Church of Panaghia Balinu
Ferruh Kethuda Mosque
Resdagabet Armenian Church
Armenian and Gregorian Church
Armenian School
    Vestibules and Tunnels
Haci Isa Mosque
Abdullah El Ensari Hz.
Balat and the Jews
    Varlik Tax
Ahrida Sinagogue
St. Strati Church
Hizir Cavus Mosque
Balat Yanbol Sinagogue
Agora Tavern
Taverns
Balat Gate
Yusuf Sucauddin Mosque
Salonica Sinegogue
    Memoirs of an Istanbul Jew

FENER
Metochion of Mt. Sinai
St. Yanni Metochi Church / Church of St. John the Baptist
    Wooden Houses and Fires in Istanbul
Church of St. Stephan of the Bulgars
Exarchate (residence of the Exarch)
Library of Female Authors Women’s Library
Fener (Fenar or Phanar)
    Farewell Istanbul
Kantemir Palace
Patriarchal Church of St. George
Vlah Palace /Church /Chapel St. Mary the Consoler
    Crusaders in Constantinople
Yuvakimyon Greek Girls’ High School
Church of St. Mary of the Mongols (Mouchliotissa)
Mesnevihane
Greek Lycee of the Phanar (the Great School)
    Schools and Libraries in Byzantine Times
Patriarchate and Church of St George
Marasli Greek Primary School

FROM CIBALI TO KARIYE
Yeni Ayakapi (New Holy Gate) and Ayakapi Hamam
    Restaurants
Cibali
Kucuk Mustafa Pasha Hamam
Gul Mosque
Cibali Gate
Church of St. Nicholas
Ayakapi (Holy Gate)
    Cuisine of Old Istanbul
From Yavuz Sultan Selim to Kariye

Chronology
Byzantine Emperors
Latin/Roman Emperors
Ottoman Sultans
Explores and Writers – The Times in Which They Lived
Glossary
Sources
Index